Published in the August 17, 2016 edition
By JUDY MUSE
WAKEFIELD — Wakefield has the only restaurant in the United States that serves Rappie Pie thanks to the efforts of local residents Bernadette Frotten-Lyle and Judy Volpe Muse who met through the Facebook group, Rappie Pie Rules.
The site is based in Nova Scotia, has about 3,500 members in the U.S. and Canada, and is concerned with “all things Rappie.” Most of the members have Acadian roots that go back to the southwest villages of Nova Scotia including Yarmouth, Quinan, Pubnico, Tusket, Amirault’s Hill and Surette’s Island. They are second, third and fourth generation of families who grew up enjoying this Acadian dish.
Warm family memories are part of the enjoyment when Nova Scotia style Rappie Pie is made and consumed, especially when multiple generations are present and eager to learn the process.
But, what is Rappie Pie and does it really rule? Yes it does – in the U.S., Canada and around the world!
Rappie Pie (pate de rapure) begins with potatoes. Old recipes said to pick a peck of potatoes, peel them and grate them. Early generations used a box grater — a time consuming process which left many cooks with skinned knuckles. The next generation graduated to handmade mechanical and electric graters. Either way, the juice and starch had to be squeezed out by a variety of methods: a handmade press, the strong hands of a grandson or even by putting the grated potatoes in a pillow case, tying the end off and running it through the spin cycle of a washing machine! Now, electric juicers speed up the process and eliminate the squeezing.
The next step is mixing in a rich homemade chicken stock, seasoning it, adding a layer of chicken, pork, or corned beef, some butter pats, bacon or salt pork (or all three!) and bake until it has a nice brown crust on top — between 2 and 3 hours. Serve plain, with butter or molasses and enjoy.
But back to how Wakefield has the only U.S. restaurant that serves this unique meal! On the Rappie Pie Rules Facebook group Bernadette met many people who longed to have it in the U.S. so on her own in 2013 she held the first annual Rappie Pie house party in her home. The invitation was posted and was free to anyone who showed up. An Acadian band provided entertainment. When the guests numbered 50 people, Bernadette had to lock her door! There have been three more parties at local halls, growing to 200 guests this year. The event is still free but Rappie Pies, sides and desserts are donated by attendees. Raffles help to cover expenses. Google “Rappie Pie in the USA” and read about the 2015 party organized by Bernadette and several others.
By chance in late 2015, Judy was introduced to Red Rami, co-owner and Jetmir Vertopi, chef and co-owner of Early Harvest Diner on Broadway before it opened and later mentioned Rappie Pie to them every time she ate there. She stressed that there are a lot of people of Acadian descent in the area who would love to be able to buy their favorite meal locally. During the 2016 fete, Bernadette and Judy met and discovered that they both had the same goal. Over lunch the following week they developed a strategy. After a few joint lobbying sessions Bernadette and Judy convinced Red and Chef J to serve a meal they had never heard of until they were double-teamed by the two determined women! Soon after, both of them made a sample Pie for Red and Chef J and provided a recipe and guidance. Afterward, they made several on their own and were ready to host a formal tasting. A notice was posted on Rappie Pie Rules that Bernadette and Judy had arranged with an unnamed local restaurant to serve it and that volunteers were needed for a tasting. The Facebook group almost blew up with excitement! The location was revealed to a dozen tasters a day in advance and they were sworn to secrecy. Red and Chef J soon learned how much Acadians loved their Pie. They now serve it for lunch Monday through Friday. With no publicity except on the Facebook group, Early Harvest sells out most days. The demand has continued strong both with locals and people from as far away as Florida and Arizona stopping in Wakefield on their drive up to Cape Cod or New Hampshire/Maine on vacation. Recently one man froze half a Pie and took it with him to Turks and Caicos! Take-out business is brisk for individual servings or trays of this wonderful meal.
And, what do Bernadette and Judy have to say about accomplishing this feat? From Bernadette, “Rappie Pie is our Acadian heritage and culture. It is memories of families and friends gathering at a table with their favorite meal. It’s a tradition we are hoping to keep alive here in Wakefield and surrounding towns.” Judy states, “Although I have no Acadian blood, I have been married for 53 years to Ed Muse, the grandson of an Acadian from Quinan. Three generations of our family still prepare it together and I am thrilled that Bernadette and I were able to make Rappie Pie available to others. Kudos to Red and Chef J for taking a chance on us!”
So there you have it, another example of how great Wakefield is!
